Livermere and M. R. James

Last week I visited Great Livermere, just over the Suffolk border, the childhood home of M. R. James, whose father was the rector of St Peter’s Church in the village. James himself was deeply attached to Livermere, according to Michael Cox’s excellent 1986 biography, and it wasn’t hard on a rain-soaked, ghost-grey November day to see how the atmosphere of the place might have had an effect on the young Monty.

Walking around the churchyard I came across the grave of the Mothersole family – the surnname will be familiar to James’s readers as that of the witch from his story ‘The Ash Tree’.

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A friendly and very vocal familiar – the local black-and-white cat – came over to investigate what I was up to, before slinking back through the wet grass.

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Various headstones bore suitably gothic reminders of mortality: skulls, bones and the like. Rich pickings, perhaps, for the young Monty to store away for later use? I myself felt a little like the character Viscount Saul from ‘The Residence at Whitminster’, so memorably described as “whimsical” and “given to moping about in our raths and graveyards”. Hopefully though I’ll manage to avoid the boy’s fate! (I managed somehow to miss the headstone of James’s parents, which Monty had erected – that will teach me to try and do my reading before visiting a place!)

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A distinctive feature of Great Livermere is the lake just behind the church, which gives its name to the village. I’d never actually visited it before, though knew of its reputation as a good birding site (I remember being jealous of my brother who saw a Black-winged Pratincole – a rare wading bird – there in the 1990s.) On the day I visited there was nothing there so exotic, though a female Scaup (a scarce diving duck on inland waters) was a good spot, and a Kingfisher flashed by. This Grey Heron (or Harnser to use one of my favourite old Norfolk bird names) was sitting in a rather stately fashion in the waterside trees:

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The lake itself is made up of two parts: Ampton Water, the narrow snaking and tree-lined southern half, and the aptly named northern Broad Water. With its part-submerged trees and indistinct shoreline this part of the mere struck me as particularly atmospheric, a kind of post-diluvian landscape that seemed to offer a glimpse of a peopleless world in which the waters have overwhelmed the land. (Perhaps that was just the strengthening rain playing with my mind though!)

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Leaving the lake behind I felt it only right to see the Rectory itself, the place where Monty spent his childhood when not away at prep school or later at Eton. En route I passed this gate in presumably the wall at the back of the Rectory’s extensive garden (or of another of part of the old Livermere Estate). It brought to mind the scene in Monty’s last published ghost story, ‘A Vignette’ (pub. 1936):

“You are asked to think of the spacious garden of a country rectory, adjacent to a park of many acres, and separated therefrom by a belt of trees of some age… A close gate of split oak leads to it from the path encircling the garden, and when you enter it from that side you put your hand through a square hole cut in it and lift the hook to pass along to the iron gate which admits to the park…”

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Back past the surrounding scatter of houses and I could get a glimpse of the Rectory itself, long since a rather grand private residence, through a gap in the scatter of trees.

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(Looking now at the photo it’s quite a disappointment to find no half-formed faces peering out from the attic window, though perhaps when I look again there will be something – see ‘The Mezzotint’!)

Rather incongruously, parked just oppposite the entrance to the house was this most-unexpected vehicle – a mobile  Insect Circus Museum no less! – while adding to the late autumn atmosphere were the various mushrooms poking up through the leaf litter.

Great Livermere is a wonderfully strange and atmospheric place, and certainly somewhere I’ll be returning to in future.

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(I should add that I visited Livermere in the wonderful company of my friend, the film-maker Clive Dunn, who made the excellent ‘A Pleasant Terror: The Life and Ghosts of M. R. James’, which is well worth trying to catch up with!)

 

 

‘He has some power over your eyes’

Visiting Salthouse on the North Norfolk coast last weekend, I was taken by the eerie flat light and these rusted remnants of a fence whose posts were desperately trying to cling to the shingle. I took some photos, realising when I got home that a couple had wandered into the right-hand edge of the shot, bringing to mind the end of M. R. James’s wonderful ghost story ‘A Warning to the Curious’.

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Fin-Back

Last Friday (21 October) I went to look at the immature female Fin Whale that had washed up dead on the beach at Holkham on the North Norfolk coast the previous day.

It was a very moving sight, something I’m going to write about in more detail in future. For now though here are some photographs I took, which I think capture something of the sculptural beauty and grace of this magnificent 40-foot animal, a species I’ve been lucky enough to have witnessed on several occasions at sea where essentially all the whale reveals of itself is its distinct tall dorsal fin and spectacular blow, wonderfully described by Melville as a “straight and single lofty jet rising like a tall misanthropic spear upon a barren plain”.

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RIP whale.

New childlore article for #FolkloreThursday

'Hide and Seek' by William Merritt Chase (The Phillips Collection)

‘Hide and Seek’ by William Merritt Chase (The Phillips Collection)

I’ve written a new article for the FolkloreThursday website focusing on A Dictionary of British Folk-Lore, Part I: Traditional Games by Alice B. Gomme , which is now live on their site. Check it out! #FolkloreThursday

(There’s quite a lot of folklore in The Listeners too, from retellings of the Babes in the Wood and Mistletoe Bride legends, to various local Norfolk superstitions including lantern men and the Devil’s Pit, as well as all sorts of odd stuff that William believes in. I’m not sure how much childlore there is – William is  too busy roaming the woods on his own to engage with any!)

Waved Black: a rare Norfolk moth

Waved Black

Waved Black, Wymondham, 12 August 2015 (Photo: E. Parnell)

I started using a moth trap last June – a simple harmless light positioned above a wooden box, which attracts moths at night and then holds them until I check the box the following morning. Since then, with only occasional use, I’ve caught more than 150 species of the larger macromoths, as well as almost 50 of the trickier-to-identify micromoths. The undoubted highlight in terms of rarity though has been a small, dark moth: the Waved Black.

I first caught one of these black and yellow moths on 12 August 2015. Initially, I assumed it must be something common that I was unfamiliar with (most species at that point, and probably still now!), but searching through my field guide it took me ages to find this rather butterfly-like creature. There it was though, Waved Black (Parascotia fuliginaria). Looking it up on the excellent Norfolk Moths website, I was surprised to note that at that point there had only been around 25 records in Norfolk of this species, which is largely confined to an area around London, Essex and the Home Counties, with an outlying population around the Severn Estuary.

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12 July 2016 (Photo: E. Parnell)

Fast forward to July 2016, when I noticed another little black moth resting in the back of my trap while emptying the catch from the evening of the 12th; this time I knew instantly what it was. Two night later on the 14 July, I caught another slightly differently marked individual and received my first moth ‘twitchers’, as various other Norfolk moth-ers (‘moth-ers’, not ‘mothers’!), including James Lowen (visit his excellent wildlife blog), came to take a look.

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Waved Black, Wymondham, 4 August 2016 (Photo: E. Parnell)

Finally, on 4 August, I caught another individual, attracting another wave of visitors to look at this scarce little moth. The fact that the species has occurred two years running in my garden suggests that these aren’t migrants, but part of a small population probably occurring in the sallows/wet woodland that border my garden. Incredibly, the area seems to be the Norfolk hotspot for the species! Hopefully, however, having now made that bold claim, the August individual won’t turn out to be the last garden record that I have…

Norfolk in ruins

Last week I spent a very enjoyable day out in West Norfolk and the Fens with my friend Clive (who took the fantastic cover photo for my novel), as we poked around various old churches and ruined buildings. One of the churches we visited (which shall remain nameless for now) was very much the inspiration for the church in ‘The Listeners’, and revisiting it for the first time in several years was quite poignant.

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“I can feel the ice-white harshness that pours through the windows, like light inside a glasshouse, mesmerising me…”

The church organ was suitably gothic, but I couldn’t get a sound out of it, despite pumping the bellows in true William Abrehart style…

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If I had seen this ‘Table of Kindred and Affinity’ while researching the book I would have definitely have included it somehow, as it was absolutely perfect. This photo isn’t staged either, this is exactly how it was placed.

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To the side of the altar, I loved the way the light fell on this chair and lectern. I could imagine Reverend Thurtle standing there, but there was no sign of him, fortunately.

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Nearby were the remains of a ruined priory. Despite gazing longingly many times at them over the years, this was the first time I have managed to have a proper close-up look, courtesy of kind permission from the owners of the house whose grounds they stand in.

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After this – and the appearance of a timely ‘stormcock’ (Mistle Thrush) overhead – we headed west, deep into the Norfolk Fens, to explore two ruined churches and a ruined house. I was particularly drawn to this face, which contained so much character in its lichen and its weathering.

 

Review and media roundup

Weed Death - the Non-Poisonous Weed Killer Poweder.

 ‘Weed Death’. Not really relevant to this post, but I needed a photo and rather liked this! I took the photo in Norwich Castle Museum a couple of month’s ago – the box was there in a display of found objects.

Gunnar Jaeck has just posted an excellent, and very interesting, review of ‘The Listeners’ on his website, Metal Reality. Click here to read it. And also have a look around the rest of the site while you’re there. It’s definitely metal, as well as also pretty mental (and I mean that in the positive adjectival sense that was widely in use when I was in school!).

Less metal, but more classic condiment: I was interviewed on Norwich’s local TV station, Mustard TV, a couple of weeks ago, where I talked about this year’s Wymondham Words with my Festival co-director, Moniza Alvi, and also read from ‘The Listeners’ (complete with funky sepia video effects!). Here’s a link to the item, though I don’t know how long it will stay live.

Africa’s Vulture Crisis

The situation for Africa's vultures is bleak - but it's not too late... (Photo: Estitxu Martinez de Albeniz)

The situation for Africa’s vultures is bleak – but it’s not too late… (Photo: Estitxu Martinez de Albeniz)

I thought I’d share an article that I wrote for the September 2015 edition of BirdLife International’s World Birdwatch magazine, which highlights the grave threat these magnificent birds of prey are facing.

To read a PDF of the article (500 KB), please click here.

To help, please visit: https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/africanvultures